My beautiful summer of moderate temps, ample moisture and smoke-free skies got spicier with a phone call from a friend. Their rafting permit on the Main Salmon River in Western Idaho was canceled last year due to a large forest fire. Their permit was honored this summer, and one party could not make the trip so we were invited!
The Main Salmon River is truly iconic. It is one of America’s greatest freshwater fisheries and it is the longest undammed river in the United States, at 425 miles. It is the longest sockeye salmon run in North America, and over 50% of all Pacific chinook salmon used to spawn in the Salmon River until erosion from timber harvesting devasted that. The Salmon Canyon is the second deepest canyon in America next to the debated Hell’s Canyon, Idaho and Kings Canyon, California, and is substantially deeper than the Grand Canyon. Enough superlatives? There’s more!
On Aug. 23, 1805, Merriweather Lewis and William Clark’s historic exploration started down the Salmon River on their quest for a water route across North America. After several days Clark and Shoshone guide Swooping Eagle turned around in failure, citing a tumultuous river. The river soon became known as the River of No Return.
The 1,000 mile drive from here is no small feat, but the rewards are bountiful. When we launched on our six-day, 81-mile float trip we were instructed not to camp for the first 10 miles. Hillsides were verdant with waist high undergrowth just two years after the Elkhorn Fire. Myriad 65 feet tall charcoal spires punctuated the slopes presenting risk of blowdown timber.
The Main Salmon is Class III, but the half dozen Class IV rapids challenged my skill in the oars. My comfort level was bolstered by the tutelage of Ben and Thor, both highly skilled boat men. The trip was a family affair with three generations represented.
The next day, we were instructed not to get out of our boats for the next 10 miles. The risk was soon evident as the valley flanks were dappled with spot fires from river to ridge! The forest is primarily Ponderosa Pine, which are colloquially referred to as Yellow Pine. As we rounded the bend, a flaming 70-foot Ponderosa was shedding blazing branches from its crown.
Our next camp was a perfect bay with a granite monolith in the middle. Just as we turned in for the night the storm rolled in. The real Thor fired continuous salvos of crashing bolts into the ridges and sent one very close to our camp for effect. It rained hard for some time. Then, in the darkness, we heard a large rockslide tumble down the ridge across the river. This display of rogue lightning is probably indicative of why Idaho burns every summer.
How man interacts with such raw, stunning and often savage resources is something I wanted to learn more about. We are gifted with something as rich and alive as the Salmon River and we must rise to responsible stewardship. In 1980, Congress designated the Frank Church (named for the beloved Idaho legislator and conservationist) River of No Return Wilderness Area. It is the largest contiguous wilderness in the Lower 48 and, at 3.3 million acres, it is also the largest roadless area.
The 81 miles of river we descended was designated a Wild and Scenic River, also in 1980, and is part scenic and part recreation by definition. Do not think there was never a threat of a dam!
We were instructed to yield and pull off to the riverside to allow high powered jet boats to navigate these wild rapids. Yes, specially designed for the Salmon these boats service the numerous river lodges up and down the river on this Wild and Scenic section. Congress recognized this historical use, which is protected under the Salmon River’s Wild and Scenic designation. Permits control the use of the boats, just as they control the whitewater floating use. Twenty-six grass airstrips, sometimes as close as 100 meters to the river, are also a common historical use on the Salmon Rivers. STOL (short take off and landing) planes and skilled pilots supply the camps, deliver mail and shuttle guests into this massive wilderness area.
How can these uses be compatible with Wild and Scenic designation? Every designation is tailored for the unique character, attributes and constraints of each river. A wide Alaskan river’s protections would certainly not fit a small, steep, populated river in Western Colorado. We would not lease our beloved house or ranch to someone, or place protective covenants on our river, without fine tuning such an agreement to every detail. I maintain that the only thing worse than “too much government” is the private sector running unbridled. The River of No Return Wilderness and River are icons at the peak of a system designed to preserve God given resources for everyone, of every class, in perpetuity.
Can Wild and Scenic designation of the Crystal River benefit everyone while protecting our personal rights? Educate yourself now with thoughtful research and by reaching out to your neighbor.
To learn more about the Crystal Valley Environmental Protection Association (CVEPA) and how to support our mission, visit www.cvepa.org