“Amateur Eats” is The Sopris Sun’s new food review, written by Carbondale resident and eating enthusiast Jake Skardon and published on the third Thursday of each month.
RESTAURANT RATING:
Cuisine: Mediterranean
Quality: (5/5)
Price: $70-$100+ per person,
if you order as many drinks as I do
Amara is, in Carbondale’s ever-changing restaurant scene, a breath of fresh sea air. Offering a robust Mediterranean/Middle Eastern menu, complemented by an excellent bar and large wine list, Amara is poised to outlast new-restaurant hype and establish itself as one of the best restaurants in town.
Located at North 4th off of Main Street, Carbondalians will recognize the building formerly occupied by Bodegon and the long-running AXKAWA before that. While one of the pricier restaurants downvalley, Amara’s vibe is welcoming and unpretentious; this is as much a place to meet a friend for a quick cocktail as it is for date night. I visited on a Thursday night, and was surprised to find it almost full at 6:45pm. Without a reservation, I was sat at the bar, which is probably the best way to experience Amara. First, the two-tops are a bit small. I noticed that other diners were cluttered with the many plates they ordered (you will be ordering a lot). Second, the bartender, Jannet, is wonderful. She kept the bar entertained with banter and behind-the-scenes info on the menu, particularly her cocktails, which she described as “classics, with a slight [Mediterranean] twist.”
Jannet was spot on; the drinks are mostly traditional, with the “twist” being unique liquors and botanicals. My favorite was the Aegean Sour, the Greek cousin of Pisco Sour, with Pixari added for an earthy, herbal aftertaste that complicates the traditional foamy sourness. Another winner was the Olive Oil Martini; the oil, extra salty brine, and blue cheese olives come together as a boozy yet refreshing gulp of ocean water. The cocktail menu may not seem bold on paper, but I loved the depth added to familiar drinks, and appreciate that Amara steers away from the excessively fruity and sweet, which is becoming too common across other valley restaurants and bars.
When I first sat down, I was encouraged to order everything up front, which ended up being sound advice as it took a while for the first dishes to hit the table. I started with two tartares, beef and watermelon. Admittedly, I was a bit skeptical of the watermelon “tartare” — grilled watermelon on a salad of spaghettied cucumber topped with whipped feta, nuts and spices — but was pleasantly surprised by the layer of textures in each bite. Crisp, spiced almonds break ground for meaty watermelon, which dissolves into the soft cucumber. This was one of the more unique options on the menu, and while I’m glad I tried it, I felt the flavor was in limbo between salad and dessert. Still, this is worth ordering if you want a meat-free starter, or are feeling adventurous. The beef tartare, served with potato chips, onion and lemony aioli, gave a “chips and dip” theme. While the portion was a bit small for sharing, I would recommend it as a fun appetizer for meat lovers.
After the double-tartare and a few drinks, I was hungry for the next plates: flambeed saganaki and grilled dates. The saganaki, a skillet of sheepmilk cheese, is lit tableside, a fajita-esque spectacle that turns heads. Mine happened to set off the smoke detector. Served with lemon juice, roasted garlic cloves and fresh pita, I enjoyed the crunch of the burnt ends and the pulls of gooey, cheesy goodness. The heaviest item I ordered, I recommend you enjoy it with company so you can save room for other dishes. The grilled dates were incredible: subtle crunch from caramelized sugars, wrapped in salty, smokey chorizo and served on top of a not-too-tangy yogurt sauce. This is an Amara must-order, and my only complaint is they don’t give you more.
For my entree, I ordered the beef tagine, a massive pot of stewed beef with a mound of couscous salad. The beef was an assortment of bone-in cuts that melted in my mouth. Despite the fragrance of the stew, it retained a meaty, present flavor that stood on its own. The couscous was delicious: fluffy and light with apricots, raisins, almonds and spices mixed in. Some whole carrots were wedged in, naturally sweet with saltiness from the absorbed broth, serving as an intermediary between the couscous and beef. This is one of the best entrees I’ve had in Carbondale, and priced at $32, also arguably the most bang-for-buck. With everything else I had eaten, there was plenty to take home. I wish I had room for dessert, but that’s just another reason for me to return. Dishes like the Aleppo Chicken and Lemon Saffron Linguine also caught my attention for next time. Additionally, I learned that paella is served every Tuesday, and is a great opportunity for dining with larger groups.
In all, I was very impressed by Amara. The food, drink and ambiance all scratch an itch that other new restaurants in Carbondale have struggled to reach. You may leave with a lighter wallet, but your full belly makes it well worthwhile. If you crave Mediterranean, want to impress a date or just want to splurge on an excellent meal, make your next reservation at Amara.